Thursday 2 May 2013

Song Shan, China's version of the Grouse Grind (of course it's bigger)

Today I went to the Sonyang Scenic area, which is a park close to my hostel, for a nice relaxing day in the park.  This is where my cab driver dropped me off yesterday, when he was supposed to be taking me to my hotel.  Here's where I wound up instead (which is also where I had a nice breakfast this morning by the way):



Doesn't it look nice?  Who wouldn't want to stumble across a place like this when you're wandering around lost in China.

Of course my day couldn't start (or end) without even a small adventure.  On my way out I asked my hotel if they serve coffee.  "Just sit down and wait awhile," an old Chinese guys said to me.  We sat awhile and then he called someone on his phone.  "Hey there's a laowai waiting for some coffee."  (I don't know that he knew I spoke a little Chinese.)  Anyways I was on holiday so no rush, but after an hour (!) someone finally shows up to serve me a coffee.  I order the "special" which is over 50 RMB, but which turns out to contain a healthy shot of whisky!  NOW I feel like I'm on holidays.


Anyways off I went for a stroll around the park.  I went to the Songyang Academy first, as I'd bought  ticket.  (I also bought a ticket for the Songyue Pagoda, but more about that later.)  It was unremarkable.  I must be becoming jaded because all these buildings are starting to look the same.





Then I set out for the peak.  I had the usual crowd of hangers-on, a group of young students (maybe 15 years old) and the usual collection wanting to take my picture.  I've made the observation that based on age the Chinese will react to a foreigner saying "ni hao" as follows:

   Under 10 - wonder and fright (mostly fright)
   11-25 - thinks foreigners are cool, and especially if you talk a little Chinese (and if they have studied English at all will want to chat to you in English)
   25-49 - non-deterministic - some smile and say hello and others just turn a cold shoulder
   over 50 - just laughs at the thought of a foreigner trying to speak Chinese

At any rate Songyang is home to Junji Peak, the highest peak of the Song Shan range, at a tad under 1500m.  This is also known as the Chinese version of the Grouse Grind (because that's what I've named it).  Judge for yourself:







It took about 2 hours to climb to the peak, and this (above) is what I was looking at pretty much the whole way.  Of course this (below) is the view on the way down:





It was all worth it, because I knew there was a cold beer waiting for me at the bottom.

Rested and refreshed, I went ff in search of the famous Songyue Pagoda.  A cabbie offered to drive me, but I've been burned twice already, so decided to walk.  Big mistake!  The view is nothing like the hike to Junji Peak.



No more being a cheapskate for me.  I must have made a wrong turn, because after another hour of hiking I got to a signpost pointing me back in the direction I just came!  Groan.  Anyways back to the hotel for me, a nap, and maybe I'll try to find the Yongyue Pagoda some other day!


1 comment:

  1. Great reading your blog, happy to know you have not been arrested or charged a fine for being to tall or too foreign. Hope you are having lots of fun, seems like it.

    M

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