Saturday, 8 June 2013

First impressions of Guilin

I slept in this morning until about 9AM.  (My flight was late last night and I didn't wind up getting to bed until about 2:30, and am having trouble adjusting to my new bed.)  So by then my new family was gone (both of the adults to work and the son to school - yes school on a Saturday it's normal here).  I've seen the mom briefly but I'll wait until after dinner tonight - when presumably I'll get a chance to meet everyone - to post details!

I had my orientation at CLI (my Chinese school here in Guilin).  Leona (in charge of student affairs) picked me up at the homestay and took me into the school.  I got a tour of the school and an overview of activities (lunch is available every day and Monday night is a school trip to see Star Trek Into Darkness!) and an overview of my class schedule.  I've got 4 hours a day and unfortunately not a regular schedule - some days start at 8:20AM and some run until 6:10PM (although thankfully not both on the same day), some days I have consecutive classes and some days I have a long break.  There are lots of places in the school to work, and lots of parks and shops nearby (and my homestay is only about a 15 minute walk from school) so no issues around the schedule.

Leona and a few other students took me out for a "welcome lunch":


At a Chinese meal the various plates come as they are ready, so for people who like to get a picture of the meal you either have to take multiple pictures (as the food arrives) or wait until it all arrives at which point half the dishes are empty.  There were 5 of us and 5 dishes - a mushroom dish, beans and beef, sweet & sour pork, tofu and steamed buns.  (We also learned that "eating tofu" is a euphamism for flirting or taking advantage of someone!  Don't ask!)

Then a couple of the students took me on a walking tour of downtown.


This is Solitary Beauty Peak.  This area is famous for these limestone towers that just rise up out of nowhere, no doubt you've seen pictures of the South of China.  They are all over the place in Guilin and I'll be updating more pictures over the next couple of weeks, as I visit the parks and climb the peaks.  There are boat and bus tours of the areas outside of Guilin (including the area that inspired the scenery in "Avatar") so look forward to that too!


This is a longer range view of Solitary Beauty Peak.  It's hard to get  sense of it from pictures - from a distance it hides behind the buildings and trees and up close it just fills up the frame.


There are a couple of streets downtown that are "walking only" - no cars or bikes.  Apparently this is where a lot of the foreigners hang out (although I didn't see many today) so there are a lot of souvenir and coffee shops.  This coffee shop for some reason reminded me of a Starbucks.


Guilin has 2 rivers and 4 lakes.  This is the view across one of the rivers.


This is the view across one of the lakes.  The two pagodas light up at night and are apparently quite impressive.

Guilin has a population of about 675,000 and so far reminds me very much of Victoria (right down to the weather - it was pouring rain this morning and is now bright and sunny this afternoon).

Friday, 7 June 2013

Made it to Guilin

My flight was delayed a half hour, and then my backpack was the last piece of luggage off the plane, but I am now in Guilin at my new home (for the next 2 weeks).  My new family was nice enough to wait up for my arrival (I got to their apartment after 2AM!) and give me a brief orientation before they went off to bed.  I had a short night's sleep because I'm off to my new school today (Saturday) for my school orientation.  I'll post pictures and a better description later when I have time.

By the way it is POURING rain here in Guilin today.  Some tourists that I met in Kunming told me that at this time of year it rains a lot here.  Oh well just like a winter in Victoria I guess :-S

At the Kunming Airport waiting for my flight

Remember when I said the Xi'An airport was so small?  Well the Kunming airport is HUGE!  And of course my gate was the very very last one.  I feel like I just walked for miles.  I think I read somewhere that the Kunming airport is the second biggest in China and I believe it.  So far my flight is on time so I should be in Guiling soon.  More details to follow!

Thursday, 6 June 2013

Last day in Kunming, On to Guilin!

For my last breakfast in Kunming I'm having French toast with jam and a Bailey's coffee.  Can't get much more Chinese than that!

My flight was changed a couple of days ago, so now I am not leaving Kunming until 11PM tonight, and I arrive in Guilin at about a half past midnight.  There was some confusion with the school in Guilin over the dates (they are picking me up at the airport) but hopefully everything is sorted out now.  I'm spending one night in one of the school's apartments and then moving in with my Chinese family host on Saturday.  There is a national holiday next week (Dragon Boat Festival) so the school is closed next Friday and I'll get a long weekend.  Lots of time to explore!  There's supposed to be a boat ride up to a small town in the north that is a nice day trip.

I've picked up a few souvenirs in Kunming (mostly tea and coffee, since this region is very famous for both) so am having a bit of a problem packing.  I brought a few things (mostly cloths) that I haven't used at all on the entire trip, but unfortunately nothing I want to lose :-(  Let this be a lesson to all you potential backpackers out there, pack light, and don't pack anything you would feel bad about ditching if you had to.  Or just don't buy any souvenirs - this was my original plan, but it fell by the wayside in Xi'An and I went a bit over the top here in Kunming.

Unfortunately I haven't found any postcards in Kunming, so unless I can find any today, you'll all have to wait and see what I can find in Guilin.  I don't think postcards are a big thing with the Chinese, and they only seem to have them in areas with a large number of foreign tourists.  (Kunming doesn't quite qualify.)

I'm also having bad Internet problems this morning.  Let me know if this post doesn't make it to my blog!

Wednesday, 5 June 2013

Getting around in China

There are many ways to get around in China, from the very cheap and time consuming to the quick and efficient.  On my trip I've leaned towards the quick and efficient (and slightly more costly) as I didn't want to spend days and days on the train from one place to the next.


I took a "fast train" from Beijing to Luoyang and then from Luoyang to Xi'An.  Total time for the trip was about 8 hours, although I'm told there is a more direct, non-stop, route that takes about 4.5 hours.  By comparison it's about an hour flight, or 12-14 hours by "slow train".  (The "slow train" usually runs overnight.  You can get a "hard" or "soft" sleeper, or a regular seat.)

The prices (Beijing to Xi'An) are about $10 for a seat on the slow train, $20-30 for a hard or soft sleeper, $50-60 for the fast train, and about $100 for a flight.  Overall travel in China is very cheap, I don't think I've seen any domestic flights over about $150, and obviously the trains are proportionately cheaper.

Unfortunately for those of us who like the "fast train", it is not available on most routes.  The "slow train" from Xi'An to Chengdu takes 16-19 hours, and then Chengdu to Kunming is about the same amount of time.  By comparison my flight from Xi'An to Kunming took 2 hours.  Guiin to Kunming by slow train is about 19 hours (and I talked to a girl yesterday who got a "standing room only" ticket for this trip!)  China is a big country!

China is expanding the "fast train" routes available, and the Xi'An/Chengdu route is supposed to be available in a couple of years.  However if I come back I think I'll try a "slow train", just for the experience.  Most of the backpackers I've talked to here take the slow train and have had mostly good experiences.

100th Post Retrospective


This is my 100th post on this blog, and almost exactly my 2 month anniversary of landing in China.  So here is a random set of retrospective observations about my trip.

I originally planned this trip as a mix of studying Chinese and tourism - originally I was going to study 4 or 5 weeks and travel/be a tourist for 7 or 8, and I've pretty much reversed this.  At the end of the holiday I'll have put in about 7 weeks of studying.  I don't know if my Chinese is much better for it (I think I've improved a little but I still have trouble with even simple conversations) but one thing for sure it's been a real icebreaker with meeting other travellers and getting to know the staff at the hotels/hostels where I'm staying.  Everyone is very interested in a foreigner who is trying to learn Chinese, and quite a few folks have sat down to chat with me when they see me sitting at the bar/restaurant with my nose in my books.  The hostel staff have been very good at making sure I know the correct Chinese name of whatever food or drink I'm trying to order.

After 2 months I've decided that 2 months is probably the exact right amount of time I should have planned for this trip.  I'm getting a bit burned out from travelling (mostly) on my own, and am starting to crave western food more and more.  (My go-to afternoon snack here in Kunming is french fries and a gin & tonic.)  A lot of the "differences" that I used to find interesting have just started to irritate me.  (I've written about these in other posts so won't repeat myself.)  Some of the things that are considered "good manners" are different here than at home, and while it's up to me as the "visitor" to adjust, it's just not that easy!

Example.  I read somewhere (citation needed, I forget where I read this) that here in China it's considered rude to pick something out of your mouth with your fingers.  If you're eating a fish (for example) and dealing with fish bones, you are expected to either spit them out (a lot of restaurants have little garbage bins next to the tables), or pick them out of your mouth with your chopsticks.  I can't bring myself to spit, and my chopstick skills aren't quite up to "Asian" levels (although I try my best and I'm not doing too bad!) so I quietly pick fish bones out of my teeth with my fingers and hope no one notices (and if they do I hope I'm not giving Canadian tourists a bad reputation all over China!)  What to do?  Do something that is considered rude here, or do something that is acceptable here that is rude back home (that I just don't feel comfortable doing) even though it is acceptable here?

One thing that has been very consistent is how friendly and open the Chinese people have been.  Last night I was heading out to dinner (to a "duck" restaurant that I saw earlier that I've been meaning to try) and as I was leaving the hostel one of my new Chinese friends called out to me.  A bunch of them were leaving for a trip to Lhasa the next day, so they were going out to dinner and invited me along.  Anyways I was the lone "lao wai" out of about a dozen of us, and the evening strained the limits of my Chinese (I understood about 10% of what was going on), not to mention we went through 4 bottles of "bai jiu" (this horrible Chinese liquor that they love here) and beers afterwards.  It was a great evening.  And it felt really good to be invited along, even though I didn't have a clue what was happening most of the evening.

My budget for this trip.

In Beijing (3 weeks) and Guiling (2 weeks) I booked accommodation through the schools, so I got a sort of "all inclusive price" (not including food of course) of $3000 for 5 weeks, altogether.  My accommodation for the other 7 weeks totalled about $1400.  That's only $200 per week, but I was mostly staying in private rooms in youth hostels.  If I stayed in the dorm rooms (6 or 8 to a room, with a shared bathroom) the cost could have been a third, or even a quarter.  Hostels are pretty basic, but a good place to meet other travellers (foreigners and Chinese alike).  If you want something fancier you can pay as much as you like, the high-end 4 and 5 star hotels cost as much in China as they do anywhere else in the world.  For my Chinese lessons (outside of the schools in Guiling and Beijing) I paid between 60-70 RMB per hour, for a total of another $500 or so (not counting all the lessons I took before travelling to China).

My travel within China (trains and flights, not including the flights between Canada and Beijing) came to about $600.  I took the "fast train" from Beijing to Luoyang and Xi'An, flew from Xi'An to Kunming, and have flights booked to Guilin and then back to Beijing.  There are definitely cheaper options, and if I was willing to take the "slow train" I could probably have done all my travel within China for under $100.  I'll do another post just on travel, since a good friend has asked (related to my "map" post - how long does it take &etc).

For all my other expenses (food, tourism, souvenirs, etc) I'm averaging about 200 RMB per day (that's about $35), or a little over $3000 for the entire 3 months.  That includes a mix of eating at noodle stalls or street vendors (6 to 10 RMB for a bowl of noodles), something you'd consider a "normal restaurant" (20 to 50 RMB) and occasionally a splurge (I've had a few meals over 100 RMB).  Days visiting tourist sites are a bit more expensive (it can cost anywhere from 40 RMB and up to get into a temple, park etc; I think Hua Shan was the most expensive - the entry fee, cable cars, busses etc came to about 600-700 RMB for the day) but those days are averaged out by days I just hang around the hostel drinking G&T's ;-)  (PS  there are about 6 RMB per Canadian dollar.)

Overall a pretty cheap trip - less than $9000 for my "in China" expenses.  If you're planning this kind of trip yourself you can do it much cheaper - without the language lessons, taking the "slow train", and staying in "dorm rooms" in the hostels, I figure I could do 3 months here for under $5000.  (Or much cheaper.  I talked to one backpacker who told me his entire budget for a month in China was about $1000.)  If you want something a bit more luxurious (and you can't deal with the Chinese noodle stalls and street vendors every day) you can spend pretty much as much as you like!

(Of course, this doesn't include the Canada/China flight, travel insurance, vaccinations and a few other things.  If anyone is interested let me know.)

Most of the foreign travelers that I've met haven't bothered to try to learn Chinese.   (One girl who's been teaching English here for months has only learned "wo bu chi rou" - "I don't eat meat.")   For me I've been glad to be able to say a few words here and there but I can't say I've ever been in a position that I'v absolutely needed it.  Most useful is when one of  the locals or another tourist is asking where I'm from etc, and usually that's after I've said "ni hao" and they find that I speak a bit of Chinese!

Taking Chinese lessons in China has been very interesting.  If I were to o this again I'd do the lessons all at once up from (2 months learning Chinese followed by a month of travel).  I think I've seen more if China the way I did it, but you lose a couple of days every time you change teachers, have to adjust to different teaching styles etc.

My blog.

Keeping a blog has been very interesting for me.  It gives me something to focus on during the periods when I'm not doing any of the traditional "tourist stuff", and definitely help to keep touch with all the family and friends back home.  (I've talked to a few folks here who just use email and they tell me it takes forever.  A blog is definitely the way to go.)  My blogger also gives me some interesting stats on who is visiting my blog, what country they are from and how they are getting to it.  (Interestingly I've found that most visitors to my blog are "spam".  Is there nothing on the internet that is safe from spam any more???)  However one interesting stat I noticed this week - my blog is starting to come up within various China-related google searches - check out the following:
















Do you notice that someone is searching for information on "geeky tourist attractions beijing"?  I hope my blog has been of some kind of help to them :-)

Monday, 3 June 2013

Catching up on Food

I may have posted some of these before, but since food seems to be everyone's favourite topic here they are again.

Since Luoyang I've been staying at Youth Hostels (or "Young People Hostels" as the Chinese call them), although I've made sure to always get a private room with a private bath.  (I don't know if that makes me a "hotel princess" - maybe compared to the folks here that stay in the dorm rooms, but even a private room is pretty basic!)  So far they've all had very nice bar/lounge areas for relaxing, and the menus have been dominated by Western food.  I avoided this for awhile but the longer I've been in China the more I've come to appreciate access to "real" food when I get a craving!

This is a chicken burger (and margarita) in Xi'An.  Not recommended!


The hamburger in Kunming was pretty good, although a pretty low grade of meat with a lot of filler.  Notice it is served with a fried egg, "American Style".


Breakfast - muesli with fruit and yogurt and a latte.


Hong shau beef noodles at a small noodle shop.


My second "Crossing the Bridge Noodles".  I had a side order of vegetables, and ordered the recommended "slimy seaweed" (not sure if that is a correct translation but it's accurate).  I've had these before so I don't know what possessed me to try them again.  They're exactly what you'd expect to get when you order "slimy seaweed".


Plum duck and stir-fried celery and carrots with cashews.  Yum!


Spicy been with beans and rice.


Note the amount of chilies used in this dish.  This is comparatively very little.  The hot food here has a very interesting taste, it is not just "hot" as you get when you order spicy food back home.  In this dish the chilies had a nice smoked taste to them.  (It's not actually the chilies you have t watch out for although they are quite hot.  What you need to avoid are the small peppercorns that they sneak into some of the dishes.  They are VERY hot and also very hard to avoid.)


My "go to" snack in the afternoons, french fries and gin & tonic, how Chinese can you get!  When I go up to the bar to order now, they automatically ask "French fries?  Gin & tonic?"


Spicy pork stir-fried with chilies.


Breakfast this morning - french toast with chocolate sauce.


Oops they made me the wrong breakfast.  I decided to go with fate and accept it, rather than sending it back.  It consisted of eggs scrambled with tomatoes, vegetables and hot sauce.  It was pretty good but did not go with my latte at all!  A green tea would have gone done better.


Thinking about the Logistics of Dealing with a Billion People (and their garbage)


The sheer scale of China boggles my mind sometimes.  There are as many people in Beijing as there are in Canada, and Beijing isn't even China's largest city.  Xi'An (where I started writing this entry) has a population between 6-8 million, easily beating Canada's top two cities combined (and possibly the top 3), and Xi'An is barely average size in China.  (Kunming, where I am now, is almost as big.  It's China's 16th largest city.)

Food here consists of mainly noodles, veggies and rice.  (Mainly noodles here in Xi'An, which has a rich noodle culture.)  Meals tend to have very little meat, and when they do it can drive up the cost of the meal very quickly.  For example veggie jiaozi (12 RMB) vs lamb baozi (18 RMB) with addition of only a small amount of meat, and regular biang biang mian (15 RMB) vs "special" (25 RMB) again with only a small amount of meat added.  A steak dinner will set you back at least 100 RMB, partly because this is a meal aimed at foreigners, but mainly because the meal includes a huge hunk of meat.  It's much more expensive, energy intensive, and just plain takes longer to raise a piece of meat than to grow a crop of vegetables, and the need to feed a billion people is just going to price that sort of food right out of the market.

I've mentioned before, every scrap of land is used for something, and much of it is growing crops.  On the train ride from Beijing to Xi'An I observed a significant portion of the land given to agriculture, and even in tiny Dengfeng locals had taken over small scraps of land for growing food:


In Kunming they're even growing food on Dianchi Lake (if you can't see clearly, the stilts support nets that are growing seaweed):


Back in Canada we're used to seeing big trucks delivering beer, produce, goods, whatever to stores and restaurants.  In China the delivery mechanism consists mainly of bicycles and trailers:


Some are motorized but a large number are just pedal power.  These things are continually making small deliveries to the many small groceries and eateries around town.  And also sorting and picking up the garbage.  There are no giant garbage trucks rumbling through in the middle of the night, here it's a continuous process.



Notice that they separate bottles, cardboard and other recycleables at the source.



This is the biggest garbage truck I've seen, collecting bins from an office building.

In fact the scale of everything here is surprisingly small (for the most part) - stores are small, most restaurants are just small holes-in-the-wall (here they say "fan guanr") or street vendors, delivery and garbage pick-up is by bicycle.  Even what looks like a large store can actually consist of a bunch of small vendors under the same roof (as I found in Beijing when I almost walked off with  notebook).

The packaging on some of the manufactured food products is unreal.  Pretty much everything has wrapping within wrapping:


I opened a roll of candy, and found that it was double-packaged even though each candy was also individually wrapped.  I mean come on China.  With a billion people, this kind of thing adds up!

And the souvenirs favoured by Chinese tourists are of the plastic, throw-away variety (not like the classy bobblehead terracotta warriors coveted by us Western tourists).  All of this has to make it into a landfill somewhere right?



(Although I have to say some of this crap is pretty cool.  they have these little LED lights you catapult up in the air with  slingshot and they spiral back down to earth like little helicopters, about 50 cents each and very cool at night!)

Generally when you hear about pollution in China it's in relation to the air quality, and sometimes the water pollution or the contamination of the soil.  These are related mainly to industrial causes (factories releasing chemicals and pollution into the air and water), electricity generation (which in China is still mainly coal, although Xi'An has at least 2 giant nuclear stations in the vicinity, between the city and Hua Shan), and too many cars on the road. The closest I ever read about this kind of "trash" pollution was the story about 20,000 dead pigs being dumped into the river that provided Shanghai's water supply.  But from what I've seen, in Beijing and Xi'An anyways, the trash collection process seems to work fairly efficiently.

I think it starts with the fact that most Chinese don't eat most of the packaged, processed food you see in the supermarket.  This is what you see mostly in the street:


"Da bao" = "To go", food from a local street vendor tucked into a neat little plastic bag.  Most of the street vendor food is made from scratch, right in front of your eyes.  You can see them make the pastry, noodles, buns or whatever, cut the veggies, and cook it right in front of you.  It's a super efficient process, and I think Gordon Ramsey would be pleased.  Fresh local ingredients, local specialities, and a well-coordinated and efficient kitchen and service staff (of usually one or 2 people).  No kitchen nightmares here!

And then you see endless Chinese wandering around with their "da bao" lunch in little plastic baggies.

So that takes care of most of the packaging, and inefficiencies that are involved in manufacturing, transporting and packaging processed food.  The Chinese just don't seem to use as much of it!  At least per person. that I've seen.

I happened to stumble across a recycling district in the north part of Xi'An city, during one of my many walks.  This is where all the little bicycle collection trailers wound up after separating out the useful from the not from the cities trash.  There were small garages full of cardboard, scrap metal and whatnot, and an area with a group of people sorting bottles:




They were very amused at me taking pictures of their work.  One lady was standing in front of her pile of scrap metal with a fistful of cash, like she was running a little store and waiting for customers (which I suspect is exactly what she was doing).

But this is just the business of dealing with the trash in the downtown area.  What about all the giant apartment complexes?  Surely there's a much larger quantity f trash involved, and I don't recall seeing an army of bicycle trailers sorting and hauling trash anytime I was around one of those complexes.  I can't imagine those bicycle trailers handling the garbage from a large building complex, no matter how many of them.  I'll have to find out!  Inquiring minds want to know ...

(I'm staying with a Chinese family for the last 2 weeks of my vacation, in Guilin.  Expect an update on all of this as I "live the life" of  typical Chinese family!)


Sunday, 2 June 2013

我的牙痛 (The story of my toothache)

我一个星期前在昆明到了。我的招待所很方便,附近有很多饭店,商店,酒吧,等等。恐怕,在夜里声音很打。所以我睡了不好。

上个星期天我的牙痛开始。疼痛一天比一天打。星期四我去看了牙医。他发生没有毛病。

次天我去药房。他们给我中药,我也买泰诺和布洛芬。中药和西药,没事儿!

星期六我去看龙门石窟。我觉得很有意思,也很漂亮。但是牙还痛所以我没高兴。

今天是星期天,牙痛开始七天前。今天比较好,我觉得中药越来越灵。

This is the story of my toothache, hopefully it will have a happy ending.

I happened across these interesting Chinese proverbs:

"抱薪救火" (bao xin jiu huo) - To carry firewood to put out a fire - to make a problem worse by inappropriate action.

"挖肉不疮" (wa rou bu chuang) - To cut flesh to cover a sore = to make a problem worse by applying a short-term fix, ignoring the long-term problem.

"江河日下" (jiang he ri xia) - Rivers pour away by the day = going from bad to worse.

To really learn Chinese you have to learn a whole bunch of these.  You can then litter your speech with them and impress everyone with your eloquence.   Or so I'm told.  It was hard enough today for me to learn the Chinese for "Star Trek: Into Darkness".  (Which for the record is "星际迷航:暗黑无界" - "xing ji mi hang: an hei wu jie" - and I pulled it off magnificently.  Also thank God it was in English with Chinese subtitles and not dubbed, the 3D IMAX experience gave me enough of a headache as is.)



Saturday, 1 June 2013

Dragons Gate in Kunming

Today I visited "Dragons Gate" near Kunming.  The full name is actually "龙门石窟" ("Longmen Shiku", or the Longmen Grottos).  If you recall I visited the Longmen Grottos in Luoyang, which were an interesting series of caves with Buddhist sculpture.  Kunming's Dragons Gate is similar, although much smaller (fewer caves), the sculptures are placed in the caves (rather than carved out of the mountain itself), and they are located halfway up a friggin' cliff!

I asked the hotel guy how to get there and he recommended taking the bus, "since you can speak Chinese."  He then gave me a series of directions (in Chinese) that I had to get him to repeat to me in English.  So much for my great Chinese.  I promptly went outside and hailed the first cab I saw.

Here is a view of the Western Hills from the opposite side of Lake Dianchi:


If you take a look at the cliff face and squint your eyes, you can make out the Dragons Gate.  I'll zoom in for you:



Can you see it?  A series of caves and tunnels cut into the cliff face.  These Chinese are  crazy!

There is a trail up to the "scenic area", which as most trails are in China is paved.  Lucky for me because I realized about halfway up that I had worn my sandals today instead of my hiking shoes.


From the main "scenic area" (i.e. where you buy your entrance tickets) you can take a  lift up to the Dragons Gate, or walk.  I haven't been feeling well due to my darn toothache so I took the lift.


At the end of the lift you can get many different kinds of traditional Chinese food.  I had some french fries (deep fried potatoes) with different kinds of hot sauce.



To get to Dragons Gate you walk down a steep path on the cliffside.  The guys who built this must have "had Hua Shan Envy".


Check out the girl in the short white dress and heels.  This is how a lot of the Chinese dress for a hike.  I don't know how she made it up and down some of these stairs in those heels!  I kept expecting her to keel over.


This is the entrance to the tunnel, down to the caves.



There were a small number of caves with painted Buddhist sculpture.  All were brightly painted and seemed to be in active use.






Finally a view of Kunming from the Dragons Gate.

I took the cable car down and to the opposite side of the lake (you can just make out the cable car in the bottom left of the picture).  By this time my teeth were killing me and I was getting a headache, so I tried to grab a cab downtown.  None of the cabbies wanted to take me!  God knows why.  One said "Kan bu qing" (I can't see clearly) as I showed him the map.  Since I was heading to Jinbu Square, the MAIN square of Kunming, I was a bit suspicious.  It would be like a cabbie in Beijing not recognizing Tian'anmen Square.  So anyways I walked along the lakeshore (a very nice park, 10 RMB entrance fee (!)) to the bus station, where I caught  bus back to my hotel.