Sunday, 25 June 2023

Road Trip to Lyon

 We just got back to Bonneville after a 3 night visit to Lyon, the second largest cultural hub in France (third largest city), settled 2000 years ago by the Romans (at the time, Lugdunum).

This is our apartment (we always take a photo so we remember where we're staying - especially on the first day, after returning from a walk, sometimes we forget :-S).


The apartment (renovated of course) is in an apartment building from the 1700's.  We're down a long "traboule" and one flight up a very narrow circular staircase.  (A "traboule" is a long passageway and apparently used by the resistance during the war to dodge the nazi's.)

We stayed in the old town which is at the bottom of a large hill.  The Bassillica is at the top of the hill, up a long long flight of stairs.  ("Stairs" is a bit of a theme in Lyon as you will see.)


Here is the view from the top.



We visited the "Bassillica", which is a church on top of a church.  The "new" church ...


... is built on top of the "old" church ...


The whole thing is nicknamed the "sleeping elephant", as you will see (I took a pic later on).

On the hillside nearby is an old Roman theatre.


It was built by some rich guy back in the day, with his own money.  We tried to go to a concert while we were there but never made it.

This is what a beehive looks like over here - people build these with the hope of attracting bees.


After the walk, a beer on a nearby patio!


Afterwards we visited the Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste, home of a 700-year-old clock:


It could track the date, time and the position of the sun and moon as they revolved around the earth, as well as the phases of the moon and catholic holidays.  It's nor working now - it stopped apparently 2 years short of its 698-year cycle - and they will fix it once they are done with the church renovations.



Around the church, more 2000-year-old roman ruins.  They treat these ruins in a pretty cavalier fashion, letting people walk all over them and kids just run around and play.


Day 2 it rained all day!  The forecast was for thunderstorms, which fortunately didn't happen, however it did rain on & off all day, so we did a museum day, visiting the Museum of Fine Arts and the Centre d'histoire de la résistance et de la déportation.

The entrance tickets are works of art unto themselves.



The Museum of Fine Arts had some spectacular exhibits, and the Centre de la Résistance was fascinating.  (In between - while we walked from one to the other, looking for a restaurant for lunch - it started to pour and we ducked into the closest place, a Thai restaurant of all places.)

One of the main tools of the resistance was propaganda (as it was also for the nazis).  This is a one of the early papers published and distributed by the resistance - it mimics the name and style of one of the publications of the Vichy government, but with the news of the resistance.


There were three main publications of the resistance, and the networks they developed to print and distribute the papers helped to build the three main branches of the resistance.  Eventually they merged into a national resistance movement, with support and supplies from (and coordinated activities with) the British.


This is a wireless, used by the resistance ...


... and the code sheet for encoding and decoding messages ...


Nazis loading captured resistance and the jewish population of Lyon into cattle cars to send to the camps.


A printing press used by the resistance, it could be disassembled for transport and to hide.


One frightening aspect of the Nazi occupation of France was the level to which the Vichy government and other collaborators helped and supported the Nazis.  It echos the support for the right wing organizations that is happening today ...

On a lighter note, on our second full day in Lyon we had clear weather so we did more walking and less museum-visiting.


We walked up a bunch more stairs and got a view of Lyon from a different perspective.






There are two rivers that run through Lyon, the Rhone and the Saone.  And about a hundred bridges, even more than Vancouver.  (Vancouver wishes they could have so many bridges.)  (The Nazis demolished pretty much all the bridges of Lyon as they retreated at the end of the war, so they have all been rebuilt since then.)



You can see the Bassillica (the "sleeping elephant") at the top of the hill, to the left, in this photo:


Some Lyon food:



Not in Lyon, but in Aix-les-Baines, on the way home, voted "the best cider in the world":


We stopped in Aix-les-Bains to have a picnic by the lake - the map showed a large park and beach - but when we got there we found it was a "paid" beach, so we huddled in the free area with all the other plebs and ate our sandwiches.

We're now back in Bonneville, and planning our next excursions - tomorrow to Chamonix for one night to visit Mont Blanc, and later in the week to Italy.  Today ... laundry!!!


Monday, 19 June 2023

Un Jour Tranquile in Bonneville

 We didn't do much today - a bit of shopping to stock up our kitchen, and some trip planning for the rest of our France visit (Lyon, Chamonix and side trips to Milan and Zurich).

Here is a picture of Sonya drooling over the local tomato selection.



Hiking in the Alps

 Yesterday we did an "easy" hike in the Alps, about 7km round trip with about 500m elevation gain.  (I say "easy" because it was the easiest in the area.  We were thinking of doing a multi-day hike including overnight in one of the :refuge's" (see video below) but are re-thinking that ... 


Mont Blanc somewhere in the background there ...

This is the scenery around the Refuge de Veran which allows overnighting for multi-day hikes.  There are many of these refuges, including some that serve meals.  No Starbucks unfortunately :-(


One the way home we found that everything is closed Sundays in France - we've been just buying stuff daily but will have to revisit that strategy.  We found a Halal convenience store and an Asian convenience store that was open so we bought a few frozen appies for our dinner.  A far cry from the French meal we had a Bon Vin Bon Pain the other day!

We also had some pre-dinner drinks with our neighbour and got some recommendations for local restaurants and activities.  Today will be a planning day!


Sunday, 18 June 2023

Annecy

 Day 3 we did a road trip to Annecy, about a 50 minute drive (and our first European road trip since Covid).  Annecy is a small town near Bonneville, very touristy and recently in the news, but I won't go into that ...

There are lots of canals and we did the "Rick Steves walking tour".




We had lunch at the Rick Steves-recommended "Bon Von Bon Pain" which definitely meets the "3+1" rule of eating at tourist sites (from a tourist site, walk at least 3 blocks with at least 1 turn before sitting down to eat).  This was our best meal in France!  ...  so far ...


Leek, asparagus, potato, trout and herring, yum!!!

Annecy is near a lake, so after our lunch and Rick Steves walking tour we took a walk along the lake and had a nap in the grass.

In the evening we wandered around the hills of Bonneville (where our flat is located) and were surpirsed to find Canada Street :-P




Saturday, 17 June 2023

Tomatoes and Live Music

We've spent two nights in our flat in Bonneville but already I feel like I've been here for months.  For our first full day we just wandered about town, visited the local market and had a nice lunch.  Then back to the flat for a nap.


Second dinner was pretty much the same as first dinner, except we started feasting on Sonya's tomatoes.


There is an amazing assortment of local cheeses.  I've started into the local ciders as well :-)

There was a music festival downtown in the evening, they had closed off a couple of streets and setup a few stages for some local bands.  The bands all seemed to be comprised of "old guys" (like our age lol) and a couple of DJ's for the younger crowd.  It was free and all the restaurants and cafes had setup patios in the street or were just selling beer and punch.  It seemed like the whole town was out!




Today (it is now Saturday morning) we are heading to Annecy for the day.  Sonya has the Rick Steves guide on her Kindle so we're going to follow some of his tours!

Friday, 16 June 2023

We Arrived in Bonneville France!

 After two long days of travel we arrived at our house exchange in Bonneville, France!  Here is the view from our large deck:


Planes trains and automobiles!  We left Sonya's place around 9:30am on Wednesday and took a taxi to the airport.  We flew from Victoria to Toronto, and since out flight was delayed about a half hour we had to race from one gate to another to make our second flight to Zurich.  As we were lining up to board they were announcing final call.  We had a long layover in Zurich where we enjoyed a $10 latte and then sat in the plane for over an hour waiting for the paperwork.  Eventually we made it to Geneva where we puzzled over the train system for awhile and eventually figured out the three trains to Bonneville (one from the airport to Geneva downtown, one to Annemasse just over the border in France, and then the third to Bonneville).  We were greeted at the station by our new neighbour Claire who drove us to our new home.

We did a wander around town to pick up some staples and stretch our legs - we visited the Maison de Fromage and the local grocery store where Sonya was floored by the variety of tomatoes!  I was floored by the variety of beer and cider.

Our house here is lovely although we were puzzled by how to lock the doors.  Clair told us to "Just pull up the stuff up and turn off the lock" (we figure she is using google translate) and after a couple of drinks of French beer and sparkling wine Sonya figured it out.

We had a nice meal of cheese, pate and a baguette and hit the sack!